Just as the title suggests, what tools are available on the market that would enhance evidence gathering of such a creature like a dogman? List personally owned equipment or items that may be of use to individuals or groups wanting to seek out a dogman.
I've personally never witnessed a dogman or have went searching but there are several technologies that would benefit a team or individual seeking out an illusive creature.
First and foremost digital cameras and camcorders of decent quality would be a must. No grainy cheap cameras that are so seemingly widely used in anything like bigfoot or the couple of pictures I've came across of dogman online.
Infrared technologies could be helpful for night use. As anyone walking around at night knows that the use of a flashlight will ruin your night-vision. There are plenty of IR cameras available at affordable costs that would allow IR light to be used while keeping the groups night-vision adjusted eyes in peek performance. A cheap yet effective alternative is that all digital cameras and camcorders are capable of viewing infrared light. They have an IR pass through filter just on top of the camera/camcorders sensor which filters out IR light. This filter is used to prevent IR light from reaching the sensor to increase photo quality as IR light can and will dilute out other colors. I have Panasonic HC-V100 camcorder with just this mod. This camcorder is not very expensive but with a strong IR light just about everything will clearly show at night. Daytime use is also interesting and I would consider effective use for both DAY/NIGHT use though with the exception of a powerful IR only light source.
Night-vision cameras are rarely seen due to the restrictive nature of their cost. A night-vision camera... not to be confused with IR cameras enhances available light in low light situation like night. They came become limited if you are in the deep woods with heavy foliage keeping out moon and star light but having used some in the past they are quite an amazing technology. Though the restrictions with night-vision cameras is their use is restricted to night use otherwise you risk damaging them.
Thermal imaging is one I rarely to never see. Granted this technology is very expensive like the night-vision these have the ability to be used effectively during both night and day. Depending on the type you have these are effective from any ranges from 20ft up to 4000yds for the top models. I own a FLIR Scout TK monocular which is at their lower end cameras and I've found it to be quite effective at shape and limb identification at up to 100yds. The heat can be detected through foliage to an extent and I find these to be far superior than night-vision as they have a far broader capability.
Trail cams hidden though strategic locations that are hidden well enough to prevent human intervention/theft might prove useful in catching a photo of a creature you feel might be in a certain area. These would be only useful in a shotgun like use as the creature has to come in front of it for a picture to be taken. Though if you have enough to scatter around a suspect area and are well enough hidden you might just luck into a photo of a dogma.
Post by Dogmanistrator on Sept 28, 2016 10:51:15 GMT
Greeting Bryan!! This is Dave from NADP. My favorite tool is the trail cam. I keep trail cams up for a week at a time when possible. That way we always have eyes in the woods. I also use a 18" parabolic audio system. It picks up audio from miles around. We typically carry HD cams during the day. Our goal is to start using Go Pro cams so we have hands free. At night I use Sony night shot and a converted full spectrum cam. However to capture footage at night you'd have to be standing next to a Dogman.....um yeah. So I prefer trail cams and audio at a safe distance. As far as print castings we use "Alginate impression material" which is what is used for dental impressions. For protection we never carry arms. Typically bear spray and knives for protection.
Post by Dogmanistrator on Sept 28, 2016 11:05:48 GMT
Here are the devices I find to be most useful when I am in the field.
1.) I put a dashcam on my dash and the back of my vehicle as well. At night I use a 2000 lumens tactical flashlight on the rear cam 2.) go-pro cam mounted on helmet with tactical flashlight 3.) Moultrie A5 trail cams 4.) parabolic running with sony voice recorder 5.) various voice recorders and static cams with IR/Full spectrum
Never considered sound recording devices as a possibility. I assume you're listening for unique howls and/or grunts and barks with the parabolic microphone yes? Is background noise ever an issue with using sound recording? Most of my experiences in the woods where one might think a dogman might hide out can be awfully loud between the birds and insects.
The casting you mentioned,out of curiosity do you or others in your team have any sets of known canine prints to help standardize an inspection and identification process? These days with coydogs being very successful at survival their population is booming. I've been close to some rather large ones in Warren County Ohio.
Crow,great post! A little input on the trail cams is that all infrared cameras use a infrared flash. The cameras are not true heat imaging so require that flash to work at night. Some trail cams are sophisticated enough to detect light and decide whether or not to use the flash.
Now ultraviolet cameras are a whole other deal with price range in mind. Depending on the camera and trail cam it still will require a flash of some sort at night. Quite a few animals are capable of seeing into the ultra violet as well ie: deer,cats and if I'm not mistaken canines too along with many others.
As I had elaborated upon in a previous post which I deleted, if you're going out into the field to do any kind of investigation, you need high quality flashlights, and you need more than one, with extra batteries, chargers, etc.
Even if you're not planning on being out until after dark, you should have at least minimal EDC (Every Day Carry) lighting with you in case you find yourself where it gets dark. If you KNOW you're going out after dark, you should have more than one light.
1. Lantern-type light(s) 2. Low-powered light(s) to use when you don't want to ruin your night vision or draw attention (red filters preserve night vision). 3. Small (about 5 or 6 inches and about 1 inch in diameter) powerful (600-1000 lumens) Lithium Ion powered tactical flashlight(s). 4. Larger, long-range "thrower" flashlights which will reach out 600-1000 yards or more. These mostly will cost you, but they don't have to be prohibitive. 5. Headlamps
I don't work for or promote any brand or store.
That being said, I own a lot of lights (I don't like the dark when I don't know who or what might be lurking in it). Of all the lights I own, Nitecore has so far proven to be a front runner in every way, including performance for a comparably reasonable price.
In each category I've listed a few I have experience with or know about:
1. Lantern-type lights:
The most impressive (and smallest) I own is the (about $60) Fenix CL25R rechargeable. It has a removable 18650 protected cell which can be replaced. It can be charged in the light with a USB micro cable, or it can be removed and charged with your favorite smart charger. It has 6 modes ranging from .8 lumens to 350 lumens, and red lighting too. It has a magnetic base and a tripod mount. If you just look at the picture, you'd think it's like a lot of the $6.99 at-the-cash-register lights you find in hardware stores (which might have their place), but you'd be very wrong. This light is worth the money. It's superb. www.fenixlighting.com/product/cl25r-camping-lantern/ www.batteryjunction.com/fenix-cl25r-opt.html
Coleman makes great fuel lanterns. I don't have any personal experience with them other than observing my friend using them for camping when we were growing up. They have their place. If you like fuel rather than batteries, go for it. Be aware that the mantles for those contain Thorium which is highly radioactive and has a very long half-life, so don't light them inside and don't breathe the initial smoke that comes off the mantle when you light it.
Ozark Trail battery-powered lanterns at Wal Mart work just fine and are quite well-made. I have both the $15 model and the $30 large one. All work fine and are easy on batteries.
AVOID the big fluorescent lanterns that take 8 D batteries. They give nice light, but they are big, bulky, fragile, and eat batteries like they're going out of style (which the lights are, for that reason). They also normally sell for about $30 which, ain't cheap. I did get a broken one of these which was missing the whole battery carrier at Wal Mart for $5 in the junk bin. 8 D cells equals 12VDC, so I wired a fuse, cord, and 12V cigar plug to it and it works o.k. plugged into the car 12V jack.
2.) Low-powered lights
Take your pick on these. There are a bunch of AAA-powered ones that will hang on a keychain or stay in a pocket so you can have them with you all the time. I recommend something made of metal with a good pushbutton switch. I personally do not like twist-switches because they require two handed operation.
If you have the money, there are high quality tiny lights from Nitecore, Olight, Maglight, and others available. You may even find something amazing in those bins at the cash registers at auto-parts stores & such. Since this is not your primary light, have some fun with it.
3.) Tactical (for me EDC) lights: I have a Nitecore P12, MH12 (essentially a P12 with a smart USB micro-charger built-in), EC20, MH10 (approximately an EC20 with a smart USB micro-charger built-in). I've had bad experience with Jetbeam lights - switches failed, parts fell off (and you would not expect that when you handle one of those because the machining workmanship is excellent). I've also had good luck with Klarus, Inova (old-skool indestructible twist/press switches exactly like the ones on the Surefire 6P, not my fav, but they do work reliably), Surefire 6P (converted to LED, but NOT with their kit which costs as much as a new flashlight - note - I found a few 6Ps for $34 new and bought two just to have what is now a discontinued item; Overready company takes those bodies, bores them out to accept 18650 Li-Ion batteries anodizes them in cool colors and sells them for like $350, wow, too rich for me), Solarforce L2 and similar on which most parts interchange with Surefire 6P - The solarforce lights are great lights and their LED assemblies are the best I've found and also the least expensive for one that works (you can get cheaper no-name junk P60 drop-ins off of Amazon which will burn out when you need it most - confronting dogman?).
4.) My long distance throwers are a Fenix TK61, and some OLights (the Olights have ALL been very finicky about batteries making perfect contact in order for them to work - once solved, they're great) The OLight SR52UT (now discontinued) REQUIRES high-drain 18650 batteries to work right. I had to get my batteries from Mountain Electronics in Utah. OLight now makes high drain batteries especially for their newest model thrower and they would be good for the sR52UT also. I have a now discontinued (very sorry to say) Niwalker 750N1 which, at only 700 lumens does an amazing job of reaching out on only 2 18650s (it can be run on one, but runtime will be reduced), and it is an absolutely beautiful piece of craftsmanship in machined aluminum. Now we have the Nitecore Precise P30 compact thrower that reaches out 675 yards on just one 18650! (https://youtu.be/Cr9ekxKFB3o?t=14m23s).
5.) For my headlamps, I have some Energizer cheapo 3AAA lights which work reliably for up-close work where I need my hands free. My best headlamp is a Streamlight Trident which has two flood settings and one spot which is great when looking for eyes along fields and edges of woods to see what's out there. There are a ton of other headlamps. I don't at this time have extensive experience with them, but I've come to appreciate that they are a valuable tool. I used to think they look silly, but we learn and change, don't we? (I used to feel the same way about reflective safety vests, but after seeing some bad accidents along the highway involving pedestrians and bicyclists I now have a vest in each of my vehicles for me and one for each passenger. If we have to get out along the road, the vests go on, because there are times when we DO want to be seen).
I'll add to this post when I have time.
Two places I've bought light gear and batteries are Battery Junction www.batteryjunction.com, and Going Gear http://www.goinggear.com. Going Gear has a ton of flashlight demo videos on YouTube - check them out. These are brick & mortar stores with real people and I've found them to be reliable. I have also ordered specialized batteries and a Convoy flashlight (which I like) from Mountain Electronics in Utah (www.mtnelectronics.com). This does not constitute an endorsement, just my honest observations.
There are also www.fasttech.com and www.solarforceflashlight-sales.com/ (these two are outside the U.S., you decide what it is legal and it is up to you to comply with import laws). With Fast Tech, they sell a lot of cheap flashlights and some expensive ones. You should know what you are looking at before selecting any of those because some are just junk. Solarforce products, on the other hand, are very good.
A note on some American favs:
Surefire: They're fine. They are also expensive and for me they are in the domain of agencies that are spending taxpayers' money. There are some affordable models under $100 but the lumens output doesn't compare with Nitecore, for example. I have a Surefire 6P (the old silver one) which I've beaten the living hell out of unintentionally, and it still works (converted to LED by me - as the Xenon lamp is only 65 lumens and eats CR123A batteries like time). In its native configuration the 6P is not a viable tactical light these days.
Maglight: Maglight has an iron-clad warranty on which I've collected in the past. They are not prohibitively expensive but I dont' think you get the throw and beam quality you can get for the same money with some of the high quality small LED lights. Even the LED maglights do not have the clean beams I like. (no shadows, or artifacts). Maglite is a good product line, but with limitations. I'll also add that a lot of their lights are big and heavy for the relatively small amount of light they put out.
Nebotools: I'm hot and cold on this company. Generally they do not make anything I want for a primary EDC light. I do have some of their "Larry" mini work lights and some small lights they make. They make a lot of stuff I don't like and a lot of stuff I think is overpriced for what you get.
Nightstick: Just discovered this Bayco brand when someone gave me one of their yellow plastic intrinsically safe 3AA lights. I did not think I'd be impressed, but I was. These sell for about $25-27. They are only about 180 lumens but have an excellent tight spot beam which reaches out to pull the maximum distance from the small lumens output. They have momentary-on switches which activate with a partial push then go off when released, like the expensive tactical lights, and they also activate by clicking on and staying on. Some models have a small flood LED on the side which is a great idea. They are about 7 inches long and a little large for the pocket for EDC, but they are durable, even the spring-loaded plastic clip which should not break off like the cheap flexible ones found on plastic lights and pens. Here is the front page: www.baycoproducts.com/index.php/product Intrinsically safe dual lights: www.baycoproducts.com/index.php/product/intrinsically-safe-dual-lights Surprisingly cool lights.
Speaking of Bayco products: These work lights have found a home in my vehicles and kits: I buy the cheap plastic ones (about $6), then put the $1.74 60W equivalent LED bulbs from Wal Mart in them. Now you have a bright light to run off your generator which only draws about 10W or so (I don't, off the top of my head, remember the exact wattage). This is handy also for small, 120W or so, power inverters you plug into your cigar lighter in your vehicle, because of the good light output and low wattage. They are NOT waterproof.
12VDC cigar plug extension cords. You can find these in a lot of places. The ones I used to get from Amazon have become junky. There are some at Wal Mart and similar stores. It's very good to have some long ones of these in your vehicle for lighting and other accessories, but get the best quality ones you can, and do not blow fuses in your vehicle by overloading the outlet (pretty easy to do).
If you're into expeditionary ventures, consider a professionally installed 1000W or more (preferably pure sine wave) power inverter installed in your expedition vehicle. It will supply you with usable 110-120V AC for your devices. Only run sensitive electronics on pure sine wave inverters, not modified sine wave as it will damage such things as laptops (you might get away with it, then you might not). Some of the big quad-cab pickups are, I think, coming with this feature installed as an option.
LED lighting in general has advanced in quantum leaps over the past few years and still is doing so. There are all kinds of LED lighting products that will give you command over the dark, ranging in price from a few dollars to hundreds or more.
The same is true for portable power sources. Large capacity gel cells or deep cycle batteries are useful for solar applications (with the proper controllers), and use with inverters. Lithium Ion batteries for flashlights and other products are safe if you use high quality protected cells (where you can use protected cells), and smart chargers which sense the charge characteristics of the battery and shut down before something stupid happens. Do not leave this stuff unattended while charging and select a place to do your charging that is fireproof. That really goes for all battery charging operations. Have you ever seen a car battery explode while charging? I have and it's ugly - lots of acid all over the place. Be careful and follow safety instructions.
Here's another thought: While LEDs are great, they run off of circuit boards. Circuit boards are susceptible to EMP (Electromagnetic Pulse). So, maybe it would be a good idea to keep a few old-skool incandescent lights around just in case, and some fuel lanterns available.
EDC (Every Day Carry). More support gear. Let's look at it from a dogman expedition perspective. What gear do you carry with you every day? What would you add or modify if you were going to be in dogman territory?
Consider also what you carry in your vehicle, keep at work, or available should you be forced to take alternate means to get back to your home, or campsite.
What's in your vehicle?
Do you have a GHB (Get Home Bag)?
I believe investigator David Paulides said he never goes into the woods without a transponder and a firearm (and I'm sure a whole slew of other survival gear).
The whole deal of "NO GUNS OR WEAPONS ALLOWED" is a deal-breaker for me, and is, imho, the epitome of stupidity. Neither I, nor any other law-abiding, trained and qualified armed person poses any threat to the innocent. We are not trigger-happy fools and we're not going to come out shooting at the drop of a hat, unless that 'hat' is an immediate threat to our life or that of another. A firearm is not a catch-all answer to anyone's problems. It is there for a specific type of deadly threat to which nothing less would be an effective response. It's like insurance: we hope we'll not need it, but if we do, nothing else would be an adequate replacement. If I have to be disarmed to be allowed into a place that might be dangerous (in the context of this forum, dogman sightings areas and sites come to mind), then I will not go. Period.
--- Entertaining Video: The predators are not all in the woods.www.youtube.com/watch?v=njAs6eFP6xk Defensive use of an impact weapon. Pointer: have a contingency for what you will do if you are disarmed.... The correct response for the victim would have been to floor it and get out of there. Nonetheless, I think the video is very real and shows how ugly it can get, and how fast it can get that way. He got lucky that he was able to get away after losing his weapon. In that particular case, if he had used a firearm, that would have only served to get the guy in a whole lot more trouble (principles of justification). If the assailants were dogman, the guy would be missing 411. Like the song says, "know when to walk away..."
Crow, excellent post. Lots of very sound information and advice.
That's a very good point about hearing damage/loss, and one I've been telling the 'magnum' guys for a long time. They will likely be permanently, profoundly deaf if they ever use it. I've experienced multiple days of extreme ear-ringing and hearing loss just from firing a centerfire rifle two or three rounds in the open without ear protection on one particular occasion, so I know I have ears that are extra sensitive and I have to be even more careful than most. There was a story in the Pennsylvania Game news a few years ago about a woman who got permanent deafness and extreme ear-ringing for the rest of her life just from bagging a deer with her .30-30. That's not usual in an open space, but it can happen. Knowing my own fragile hearing, I think it could happen to me. Like you say, fire something big in an enclosed space and it's really serious. I always wear ear protection and eye protection when on the range.
There were a couple of movies that actually had scenes in them which dealt with the hearing issue. If my (shaky) memory serves me, Saving Private Ryan captured what it sounds like to be in a hot environment with large weapons being fired all around you - it got muffled and 'ringy' real quick - no one could quite hear anyone well, etc. Another one was Cop Land (not a great movie) with Stallone and I think Harvey Keitel (?) in it where they got him down and fired a pistol beside each side of his head to blow his ear drums out. He was deaf after that and got some of his hearing back (the character). I thought those were good portrayals of that issue.
There is currently a bill introduced to legalize suppressors nationwide. With the current admin, it might even have a chance of passing. It's packaged well too, as the "Hearing Protection Act" or something like that.
Yep, you hit a very important and little-addressed aspect with that one.
Lots of good equipment and ideas you listed. Thanks. Now, if folks will read it and heed it...
Gotta go. Every night I'm on the road in the middle of nowhere going to work. Nowadays, I think of what might be lurking in those remote areas should I break down out there (one reason I am a flashlight fanatic). I never go unarmed, but lately I'm trying to minimalize what I have in the car (all gear) to little more than I can carry if I have to hoof it, because anything one leaves in one's car around here will likely be taken when the scavengers bust out the windows and ransack the vehicle, something I've already experienced (they did NOT get any weapons, but they did get a cell phone and a M65 jacket I liked a lot).
I have an idea for a new tool for us to use out in the field. How about a remote control Drone. Seeing how it would be cheaper then using a airplane or a helicopter. I for one plan on buying a Drone and using it when I go out into the field. That should help make it easier to see if there is a dogman behind a bush waiting to jump you.
Are stun guns legal in NJ? I don't think they are in PA (I have to check). In PA they would probably charge the possessor under "Prohibited Offensive Weapon," but I'm not sure. The bad thing about stun guns is you have to be in contact with whoever (or whatever) you're using it on, lol. If it's that close, not good.
Bear spray would not be a bad thing to have. Look up on YouTube "robber spanked and bear-sprayed." Very effective, especially when used with spanking.
A UV light would not be a bad idea (minimize exposing your eyes to it, they will blind you- permanently).
On a serious note, the Klarus thrower should be an awesome light. I own about 4 Klarus products and no malfunctions so far- very bright. See also Fenix, and Olight (Olights are picky about batteries and contact, but have awesome LED and reflector design for maximum throw). Nitecore can't be beat, imho. There is an oldie but goodie, the MH40, or MT40 if you can find them.
$100 is, in my budget, a LOT for a light, but comparatively, it's really inexpensive. See what SureFire wants for one that can do that. Surefire is arguably better (or not), but they're still overpriced. Maglite is excellent quality and warranty, but they have been for some time behind the eight ball on reflector design. Great lights if you don't mind a dark shadow in the middle of the beam. They may be better now, I haven't messed with them lately.
I can't recommend JetBeam. I've had one switch just fail, and another light that pieces fell out of. That should NOT be happening on a 1st rate light.